Bali’s Tourism in (not-very-reliable) Numbers Part I: Traffic Jam
One might be forgiven for wondering why Bali, the ‘Island of the Gods,’ is increasingly resembling a giant, gridlocked parking lot, even when the hordes of tourists aren’t at their peak. The answer, of course, is as clear as day — just glance at the above table (apologise for the lack of borders in the table due to my dyslexia problem).
In a mere 13 years, the Balinese population has modestly increased by 13.2%. Meanwhile, private vehicle ownership has exploded by over 200%. One can only assume the Balinese have suddenly become the extremely wealthy, with nearly every resident now owning a motorcycle. And let’s not forget the cars — apparently, one in every eight Balinese now cruises around in their own personal car. Of course, the more likely explanation is that these vehicles are primarily used to ferry tourists, contributing significantly to the island’s growing congestion.
And then there’s the enigma of the ‘bus’ statistic, leaving ambiguity regarding ownership (whether by the Bali Province, Balinese residents, or other entities). The island’s public transportation system, Trans Sarbagita, launched in 2011 with an initial fleet of 25 buses. Furthermore, the system’s operational capacity has been severely limited, with only 10 buses in service as recently as 2018 — figures that definitely don’t correspond to any numbers in the above table.
The road length data encompasses three categories: city roads (Jalan Kabupaten/Kota), constructed by the city government; provincial roads (Jalan Provinsi), managed by the Bali Provincial government; and national roads (Jalan Negara), maintained by the Indonesian government.
Although data for the period 2008–2014 is unavailable, it is reasonable to assume that road length growth during this time lagged significantly behind the surge in private vehicle ownership. Furthermore, a concerning trend has emerged since the COVID-19 pandemic, with a discernible decrease in overall road length, likely attributable to the deterioration of certain road segments.
But those are just numbers. Now, how can this problem be solved? While expanding road infrastructure is crucial, a multi-pronged approach is a bigger and more urgent priority to address this issue. Here are some of it (sorted in alphabetical order):
Access Limit
In 1997, the Mayor of Badung implemented a regulation prohibiting vehicles exceeding 7 meters in length from entering the popular tourist destinations of Kuta, Legian, and Seminyak. To mitigate the impact of this restriction on visitors, the Kuta Central Parking facility was established. While now largely defunct, it was once equipped with a fleet of smaller shuttles operating on a scheduled basis. These shuttles cost IDR 100,000 per trip per shuttle (up to 15 passengers in one shuttle) in the 2010s, which was very cheap. Other options such as walking or taking a taxi remained accessible — this was an era before ride-hailing services like Grab or Gojek were available in Bali and Indonesia.
This approach of limiting large vehicle access and providing alternative transportation options could be effectively adopted in other tourist areas across Bali to enhance the overall visitor experience and improve traffic flow.
Ban on Taxi and Ride-hailing Services (for trips that could be completed on foot)
In June 2023, France implemented a prohibition on domestic flights for routes where a train journey of 2 ½ hours or less is a viable alternative. Following a similar rationale, one could propose a ban on taxi and ride-hailing services for trips that could be completed on foot within fifteen minutes — food and other online delivery services could also be included under this policy. This measure would necessitate increased pedestrian activity and, consequently, greater utilisation of pavement.
Ceremonial Activities
The frequent occurrence of traditional Balinese ceremonies across the island can significantly impact traffic flow. By creating an island-wide calendar of ceremonial events, authorities can proactively manage traffic congestion and even integrate these events into the tourism experience, allowing visitors to participate (where appropriate) while minimising disruptions.
Loading Activities
Unregulated loading activities, essential for businesses such as hotels, restaurants, and construction sites, frequently disrupt traffic flow. Picture this: a daily constant flow of trucks, weaving through Bali’s vibrant streets, laden with the freshest produce and vital supplies. Their mission: to nourish the island’s extensive hospitality industry, ensuring the smooth operation of its 17,000 hotels (a count based on Booking.com listings, and notably, one that doesn’t even begin to encompass the countless restaurants also relying on this supply chain). Implementing restrictions on loading during peak hours (i.e. 7am to 10pm) could significantly mitigate this issue.
Overdevelopment
Over the past fifteen years, Bali has witnessed a dramatic surge in hotel construction across all categories, with significant growth rates observed in five-star (150%), four-star (496%), and three-star (384%) hotels — more details in Part II. Despite this rapid expansion, a significant portion of hotel rooms remain vacant, with 35% (18,600 units of room) unoccupied throughout the year during historic peak occupancy periods in 2018. This oversupply necessitates an urgent moratorium on new hotel development, particularly in high-density tourist areas and regions with critical natural resources.
Despite numerous attempts by both the Indonesian and Balinese governments to implement such a moratorium, including a proposed plan last year, Governor Wayan Koster, upon his re-election, announced that a moratorium would not be enforced.
Overtourism
Bali’s tourism sector has experienced significant growth, with tourist arrivals, domestic and international combined, surpassing 15 million in 2023, a 155% increase compared to the previous 15 years — the entire population of Bali in the same year was 4.4 million. This surge in tourism has exceeded the island’s current capacity and resources, as detailed further in Part II. Given this strain, a critical question arises: can Bali achieve the same or even greater economic benefits by strategically managing tourism flow and potentially focusing on a more efficient model, such as targeting 10 million, or even less, tourists annually?
Parking Space
The proliferation of businesses without adequate on-site parking or proximity to communal parking lots has resulted in widespread on-street and even pavement parking. Requiring businesses to provide on-site parking, proportionate to their average hourly or daily guest capacity, is crucial. Mandating on-site parking for businesses, proportionate to their average hourly or daily guest capacity, is crucial — implementing a parking fee, rather than offering free parking, will encourage responsible vehicle ownership. Businesses may choose to absorb this fee to enhance the guest experience. Furthermore, the development of well-maintained communal parking lots, conveniently connected to the MRT or other public transportation options (park-and-ride), is essential to address parking issues, particularly in high-density tourist destinations such as Ubud and South Bali.
Pavement Infrastructure
Many tourist areas lack proper pavements, or existing pavements are in disrepair. By investing in well-maintained pavements with amenities such as shade, benches, lighting, and trash bins, coupled with an improved public transportation system and adequate parking options, the island can encourage walking and cycling, thereby reducing reliance on private motorised vehicles.
Private Vehicle Ownership
The surge in private vehicle ownership is largely driven by the tourism industry. The ease of obtaining new vehicles, particularly motorcycles (requiring an average down payment of IDR 2 million or approximately USD 150 for scooters — slightly more expensive for bigger motorcycles) and smaller cars, plays a significant role. Furthermore, the readily available and relatively affordable private vehicle rental market further fuels this trend.
Implementing stringent regulations on private vehicle ownership and rental will effectively curtail the number of private vehicles on the road, thereby mitigating the risk of unnecessary road accidents, particularly those involving inexperienced drivers and motorcyclists. Consider, for instance, the implementation of mandatory adequate parking provisions for private vehicles; raise the minimum down payment to 50% of the vehicle’s purchase price, up from the current 30%; a reform of the progressive motor vehicle tax, which presently increases by only 0.5% with each additional vehicle owned; and the introduction of increased hourly parking fees for motorised vehicles in high-demand tourist locations, which will also help to encourage visitations to less congested areas.
Provide a Comfortable and Reliable Integrated Public Transportation System
Bali’s public transportation system remains woefully inadequate. The existing bus network suffers from poor adoption due to limited support infrastructure, including insufficient feeder routes, inconvenient stops and stations (including park-and-rides), and a lack of comprehensive administrative and systemic support. The absence of a mass rapid transit system (MRT) further exacerbates the situation.
Strict Punishment
Strict penalties must be imposed on individuals who violate traffic and/or any transportation-related rules and regulations. These offenses range from minor infractions like not wearing a helmet (and post it on Instagram!), ignoring road markings, illegal parking, and running red lights to more serious violations such as failing to pay annual taxes and breaching zoning policy. Penalties may include substantial fines, driving license suspension for at least six months, suspension of vehicle credit payments, mandatory court appearances, and even imprisonment, among other consequences.
Zoning and Permit
Zoning and permitting regulations present one of the most significant challenges. Existing regulations appear to be inconsistently applied. For instance, one establishment has been constructed exceeding permissible height limits within designated zones (30-metre instead of the maximum 15-metre). Conversely, other long-standing businesses have been unexpectedly sealed by authorities due to the lack of necessary permits, raising questions about the initial approval and construction processes.
While additional ideas concerning the MRT exist, their discussion is presently irrelevant given the absence of the MRT system itself. Nevertheless, I hope this writing has clarified the actionable steps available to The Powers That Be for addressing traffic congestion. I am also quite pleased to have articulated these thoughts without resorting to the often overused travel buzzword “sustainability” — except, of course, in this concluding remark.
